Aunque haya muchas carencias no se está tan mal aquí… Por las noches después de cenar vamos al cine. Colocamos un portátil al final de la mesa y, por turnos, hacemos presentaciones de viajes y pequeñas proyecciones. Como la gente que hay por aquí ha recorrido medio continente en pos de su trabajo, ya hemos abarcado casi toda la Antártida. Ayer Bart, de Bélgica, nos habló de su viaje por Svalbard, después visitamos algunas islas subantárticas. Hoy toca el Mar de Ross. Como ya empieza a haber algo de oscuridad el ambiente en el iglú es muy cálido, tomando un café o un vaso de vodka todos observamos la pantalla adormecidos y embobados tras la jornada de trabajo. En estos lugares en los que hay pocas cosas para entretenerse las pequeñas distracciones son muy apreciadas y todos esperamos el momento de la proyección como aquel que espera el estreno de una gran obra.
También me he echado nuevos colegas, en la playa, junto al resto del material siempre hay elefantes esperando mi llegada. Por la tarde, si hace bueno, se suelen juntar muchas decenas a tomar el sol. Últimamente hay un macho enorme rodeado de más de 20 hembras. Cuando yo aparezco él es el primero en advertir mi presencia, entonces levanta la cabeza y al mismo tiempo su aleta y la menea suavemente en el aire y con actitud cansada. Con esa elegancia que sólo un animal de 2500 kilos puede tener. Parece que al verme quisiera decirme: Oye mira… Me las he follado a todas yo solo, no puedo más… Entonces resopla y apoya de nuevo su cabeza en la arena. Otros nuevos colegas son un grupo de cuatro pingüinos barbijo que las últimas tardes se pasean por el campamento (que está a más de 400 metros del mar) como si fuesen un grupo de matones, van mirando de tienda en tienda y al cabo de unos minutos se marchan. Yo les llamo la banda del moco.
Los pingüinos cada vez me caen mejor. He podido estos últimos días ayudar a un pingüinologo a estudiarlos. He tenido que atrapar más de veinte para medirlos y sacarles sangre. Los pingüinos tienen mucha fuerza y al principio atraparlos con la red no resultaba tan fácil. Luego, después de dos o tres víctimas me daba hasta pena que fuese un bicho tan vulnerable, los podía coger con la mano si me acercaba despacio porque ellos, confiados, me miraban con extrañeza y curiosidad. Ahora mismo la pingüinera se encuentra patas arriba, los polluelos ya están grandes y forman lo que se llama guarderías donde se juntan todos los jóvenes. Los padres se turnan para cuidarlos y, tanto el padre como la madre, van al mar a por kril para sus pequeños. Al volver a alimentar a los hijos se produce un extraño ritual. El padre (o la madre) se acerca al lugar donde se encuentran sus hijos (dos por lo general) entonces, justo antes de proceder a alimentarlos, echa a correr en dirección opuesta. En ese momento tiene lugar una extraña persecución entre el padre y sus dos crías, por eso la pingüinera es un caos de carreras y chirridos. De esa manera será siempre el polluelo con más hambre quien se alimente primero. También de esa manera los extremadamente débiles acabarán siendo pasto de los skuas. Una pingüinera es algo más a parte del lugar donde crecen, se alimentan y se echan carreras los polluelos. Es el sitio donde pingüino macho y hembra se encuentran tras el invierno para procrear. El pingüino es un animal monógamo, no como los pervertidos elefantes, y la pareja, tras un invierno de separación, se encontrará de nuevo en el mismo lugar. Exactamente el mismo nido del año anterior será el lugar de la cita (en estos lugares hay millares de nidos).
Con colegas como estos los días pasan mucho más rápido
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