Svalbard 2010 El viaje 2
Mié, 05/05/2010 - 23:18 in
Esta vez hemos intentado ser más conservadores en el planteamiento de la travesía. Hemos reducido la distancia del itinerario. Queremos conocer otra parte de la isla y además disfrutar y aprender de ella. Por ello hemos pensado una travesía de tres semanas desde la capital del archipiélago Longyearbyen, hasta la estación científica internacional situada en la antigua localidad minera de Ny Alesund. Para ello tenemos que recorrer cerca de trescientos kilómetros, cruzar tres fiordos congelados, atravesar más de diez glaciares y pasar por la famosa ciudad rusa abandonada de Pyramiden. Este itinerario recorre la parte centro oeste de la isla.
Este año volvemos a confiar en la fuerza del viento y por ello traemos con nosotros un par de velas por cabeza de diferente tamaño (8 y 14 metros cuadrados), con la idea de usarlas sólo cuando la dirección del viento lo permita. La progresión habitual será esquiando y como siempre en este tipo de viajes llevamos fijaciones y botas de Telemark. Después de pesar escrupulosamente todo el material salimos de Longyearbyen arrastrando 55 kilos de peso trineo incluido. Tenemos previsto recoger el resto del equipo al cabo de dos días, en la cabaña de Fredheim. En total serán 82 kilos de equipaje. Incluyendo comida para veintiún días a razón de 1kilo doscientos gramos por día, 5 kilos de combustible por persona y todo el resto de material necesario para un viaje como este, ropa, tienda, cocina, saco de dormir, un antiguo rifle y una pistola de bengalas para usar como método disuasorio en caso que el oso se acerque demasiado. También llevamos un gran equipo de reparaciones con fijaciones, esquís y bastones de repuesto. Todo pesado y medido al gramo.
Una mañana despejada con mucho sol arrastramos nuestras pulkas por las calles de Longyearbyen entre coches y motos de nieve. Salimos de la ciudad por el valle del Adventdalen rumbo a la cabaña de Fredheim. Primera cabaña en nuestro recorrido situada a 50 kilómetros de la ciudad y famosa por ser el lugar donde pasó 37 inviernos el famoso trampero Hilmar Nois desde que se estableciera en 1909. En ese año levantó su pequeño hogar que aún permanece en pie soportando los mordiscos del invierno.
En la isla habita un número no determinado de tramperos. Algunos han cambiado sus tiros de perros por la moto de nieve, más fácil de alimentar. Otros no. Viven en cabañas retiradas, a menudo situadas cerca del mar, y se dedican a la caza y pesca de zorro ártico, renos y focas, pugnando con el gobernador todos los años para estirar el numero de piezas permitidas en cada estación. Son personajes directamente sacados de una novela de Jack London pero situados en Europa y en pleno siglo ventiuno. Algún encuentro atemporal tuvimos en nuestro viaje con uno de estos personajes.
Recorrimos los primeros cincuenta kilómetros en un par de días sin contratiempo alguno y llegamos a la cabaña de Fredheim arrastrados cómodamente con nuestras velas tras una etapa de veintisiete kilómetros. En Svalbard cualquier sistema de tracción eólico es factible, pero con ciertas reservas. Los vientos son cambiantes de dirección y poco constantes. En cada valle o fiordo es posible que sople de una manera o dirección diferente. Por ello la eficacia de las velas es relativa. El utilizarlas como medio de progresión hace que constantemente haya que estar sacándolas y guardándolas y variando su tamaño en función del viento. Por ello es conveniente tener cierta experiencia en su manejo y ser rápido a la hora de maniobrar con ellas. A pesar de todo esto no hay que olvidar que con un vela se pueden recorrer muchos kilómetros en poco tiempo y con poco esfuerzo, por ello aunque sólo se emplee a lo largo de media hora durante una jornada entera puede marcar la diferencia entre una buena jornada y una mala. Nuestras velas no son cometas como las empleadas en el kite surf, con líneas largas que buscan el viento describiendo ochos a cierta altura del suelo. Se trata de velas con la forma de un parapente separadas de nuestro cuerpo con una botavara a unos ocho metros de distancia. Son relativamente fáciles de usar, recogen viento de superficie únicamente y la dificultad de su utilización estriba más en el despliegue y recogida sin que se enreden, que en la propia técnica de progresión. Gracias a ellas llegamos a recorrer en alguna jornada, usándolas de manera intermitente y arrastrando una carga de 80 kilos por terreno montañoso con desnivel de 400 metros, hasta 37 kilómetros, sin demasiado esfuerzo.
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