A pie por Laponia VI
La nieve sigue cayendo en la frontera entre Noruega y Suecia donde se encuentran José y el joven Lonchas. Por ello José ha tenido que adquirir unas raquetas y de esa guisa, continuan viaje hasta Kiruna, última parada del periplo.
En el día de hoy nuestros caminantes deben de estar llegando al Parque Nacional de Abisko. Con raquetas y bajo el primer manto de nieve caído. La experiencia en la granja de huskies ha sido muy buena tanto para José como para el amigo cuadrúpedo. Creo que al final hasta le engancharon a un tiro de perros conectado al chasis de un coche a modo entreno, parece que Lonchas respondió igual de bien que sus colegas de la granja.
El Parque Nacional de Abisko se encuentra cerca de la población minera de Kiruna y es uno de los parques nacionales más septentrionales de Suecia. Se encuentra en la antesala de la zona más montañosa de este país, muy cerca de su cota más alta (Kebnekaise). A partir de este momento el Nordkaloteden se sumerge en un terreno más abrupto. El P.N. Abisko cuenta con un centro de interpretación, un albergue/refugio muy bonito y una tienda donde comprar lo necesario para una travesía por esta zona tanto en verano como en invierno.
Un poco más al sur se extiende el P. N. del Sarek. Hace ya unos años José, Dani y yo realizamos un viaje atravesando todo el Parque Nacional de Norte a Sur. Esta zona se conoce como uno de los lugares más salvajes de Europa. Una especie de última frontera aún virgen alejada por varios días de la carretera o pueblo más próximo.
A nuestra vuelta José escribió un artículo que merece la pena leer. En él os podéis hacer una idea del lugar en el que ahora se encuentra junto a Lonchas:
De todos los Parques Nacionales de Suecia, Sarek es el más inaccesible, el único de ellos que no tiene acceso por carretera, pistas balizadas, sendas, refugios, ni señales.
Famoso por su área alpina sin transformar, sus valles y su delta. Lejos de zonas habitadas, Sarek es el último refugio de vida salvaje que existe en Suecia, imaginaros! En un país que es todo naturaleza y gente civilizada que la cuida.
El parque se encuentra más de cien kilómetros al norte del Círculo Polar Artico, rodeado de otros parques nacionales, lagos y ríos que lo ocultan como un tesoro en pleno corazón de Laponia. Sarek se conserva deliberadamente virgen sin la actuación de la mano del hombre o, mejor dicho, salvándolo de ella.
Para llegar a cualquiera de sus límites se hacen necesarios dos días de camino.
Decir que tenía ganas de caminar en el Sarek sería quedarme corto. Solo había tenido la oportunidad, hace años, de entrar en el parque de manera tangencial mientras realizaba la travesía del Kungsleden con esquís. Me había fascinado tanto la visión de sus montañas afiladas que tenía verdaderas ganas de hacer una travesía a lo largo del parque que representa todo un símbolo de conservacionismo en Suecia.
Sarek es, además, importante por su abundante fauna: alces, águilas, renos, glotones, osos, etc.
Para atravesar el Sarek con esquís y pulka, dos amigos - Hilo Moreno y Dani Requena- se unieron a la aventura. Ellos vinieron primero a Kautokeino, en Laponia Noruega para vivir el festival Sami, mientras yo acababa mis trabajos en el bar de hielo de Cabo Norte, donde vivo. Así pues, cuando quedamos libres nos encontramos en Alta, donde fui a recogerles con mi coche; ellos llegaron esquiando desde Kautokeino, siguiendo la vieja ruta postal.
A mediados de Abril, aquí a nadie le sorprende ya que llueva a cántaros en vez de nevar. Imaginar los ríos y lagos que nos esperaban en el Sarek con esa temperatura era poco prometedor, más aún si tenemos que viajar 600 kilómetros al sur.
Pasada la media noche del 13 de abril llegamos a Ritsem, el albergue que sirve de entrada a varios parques nacionales de la zona y sobre todo para quienes aproximan al Sarek desde el norte.
Nuestra idea sobre el mapa era una travesía diagonal, de norte a sur del parque, por la parte más larga, siguiendo valles, lagos y ríos. De Kisuris a Aktse.
Para llegar al inicio de nuestra ruta, Kisuris, esquiamos 30 kilómetros (2 etapas) por el Parque Nacional “Stora Sjofallets”. 81 kilómetros más (3 etapas) por la ruta que habíamos dibujado en el Sarek y otros 30 kilómetros (2 etapas) para salir del mismo por la ruta del Kungsleden.
Un viaje de apenas 1 semana donde teníamos puestas nuestras expectativas en ver montaña, glaciares y abundante fauna.
Pero lo primero que debíamos hacer, era cruzar un lago helado de 7 kilómetros de ancho con una temperatura de +6ºC y que había dejado una “bonita” manta de agua que nos cubría, en ocasiones, hasta los tobillos. Un lago en plena Laponia puede tener un espesor de 50 cm en abril y cuando vienen estas “olas de calor” nada raras, se deshace lógicamente una parte de ese hielo, pero sabes que debajo de esa agua tienes casi medio metro de hielo que aguanta el paso de un tanque (literalmente). Mojarse y llegar hecho un asco a la otra orilla es otro asunto, pero eso va de oficio.
Decidimos empezar con una corta etapa de 14 kilómetros hasta el refugio de “Akka” donde un simpático guarda nos dio valiosos consejos para nuestra ruta. Estos refugios disponen de cocina de gas, agua en los alrededores, estufa de leña, lámparas de aceite, letrinas, etc.
Al día siguiente, sin frío, salimos hacia el refugio de “Kisuris” a poco más de 15 kilómetros y siguiendo el camino balizado a través del Parque “Stora Sjofallets”.
El refugio de Kisuris, verdadero lugar de inicio, tiene el honorable título de ser el único lugar de Suecia que limita con 3 parque nacionales: “Sarek” “Stora sjofallets” y “Padjelanta”. Desde allí se veía imponente la silueta del monte “Nijak”. Nos hacía soñar con lo que podíamos encontrar. Aunque nos preocupaba la excesiva temperatura; si el delta del Rapa -punto de salida al lago en el que acaba el Sarek- no estaba congelado, la idea de esquiar la espesura de un bosque de abedules, quizás sin nieve, ilusionaba poco.
Al amanecer del día siguiente, del Njak no quedaban rastros. Una gruesa capa de nubes se había tragado ese cerro tan bonito que debía servirnos como faro. De todas maneras los valles del Sarek no ofrecen muchos problemas de orientación.
La ruta en dirección sur comienza con una subida hasta los 1100 metros sobre el nivel del mar. Esta altura se alcanza a pocos kilómetros de ingresar al parque; el resto de la ruta desciende suavemente durante 70 kilómetros hasta los 400 metros donde acaba el Sarek, en el lago Teisajaure, lo que convierte la travesía en una suave bajada a través de profundos valles y cimas de casi 2000 metros, con glaciares bien visibles.
Curiosamente cuanto más subíamos, menos nieve encontrábamos. A 900 metros esquiábamos sobre la tundra húmeda entre musgos y rocas puntiagudas.
El viento se había llevado toda la nieve, pero sabemos por experiencia que cuando el bosque y la tundra están pelados, los lagos aun conservan su hielo varias semanas; los ríos son imprevisibles y el calor no ayuda, así que para ser sinceros no teníamos ni idea de lo que íbamos a encontrarnos y la sensación de llegar tarde nos inquietaba.
A medida que avanzamos, los valles empezaron a encajonarse entre montañas y la nieve mejoró mucho. El viento y el sol la habían dejado casi helada y avanzábamos a un ritmo increíble. Ese día llegamos a esquiar 28 kilómetros a lo largo del valle de “Ruohtes”. A nuestra izquierda teníamos los flancos imponentes de las montañas más altas del Sarek con algo más de 2000 metros de altura, llenas de glaciares parecen colosos. Aprovechamos una campa pelada de nieve y allí montamos la tienda. Esa noche nevó y bajó la temperatura hasta -6ºC.
Al día siguiente nos levantamos tan fuertes que apostábamos a que esa misma jornada saldríamos del Sarek, aunque para ello quedaban más de 50 kilómetros… La realidad es que los ríos no estaban tan congelados y nos obligaron a realizar muchos desvíos. Por suerte los lagos sí estaban helados.
No salimos del parque ese dia, ni mucho menos, pero conseguimos esquiar mas de 30 kilometros y encontrar un lugar magnifico donde acampar antes de que anocheciera. Desde allí quedaba la etapa reina del viaje, todo el delta del Rapa hasta el lago de “Laitajaure”
Ese dia encontramos algunas cabañas de los Samis, cerradas a cal y canto y algunas huellas de moto nieve, sólo ellos tienen derecho a usarlas, se justifica por su manera tradicional de vida con los rebaños de renos.
El rio junto al delta estaba helado y los lagos brillaban al sol de la tarde de una manera tan especial que me había olvidado que nada más salir del campamento esa mañana, había roto mi fijación de telemark. Con un apaño de cinta americana, había llegado esquiando hasta el refugio de Aktse, fin del parque nacional de Sarek y casi de nuestro viaje. Esa noche la temperatura bajó hasta -11ºC
Con los animales no tuvimos tanta suerte, solo vimos excrementos y huellas de alce, algunas águilas, y poco más. De “aktse” salimos esquiando y en moto-nieve por el Kungsleden hasta Saltoluokta donde enlazamos con el bus a Ritsem y el coche para regresar hasta mi casa en Cabo Norte, donde hemos podido disfrutar de unas tardes de esquí y cometas sobre los lagos helados de la isla.
Jose Mijares
Procuraré continuar con la transmisión del viaje otoñal por Laponia.
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