Páginas en blanco 1 (2010)
Un año más vuelvo a tener suerte y cruzamos el canal de Drake (o Mar de Hoces) con el mar relativamente en paz. Excepto un desayuno el resto de los días se pudo comer en el comedor sin que los platos volasen, los vasos bailasen y la comida se desparramase por el suelo en exceso. Tres o cuatro días después de zarpar de Punta Arenas avistamos los primeros témpanos a la deriva y las primeras nebulosas blancas en el horizonte: Tierra, o mejor dicho, hielo.
Las navegaciones en estos lugares ahora han cambiado mucho respecto a lo que debieron de ser hace pocos cientos de años, antes de los sistemas de información meteorológica, posicionamiento global por satélite y potentes motores. Sobran los relatos de travesías heroicas, tempestades infinitas, y barcos hundidos de años pasados.
En mi caso subirte a un barco de investigación polar en estas latitudes es algo así como meterte una máquina del tiempo. Desciendes a los camarotes y no sabes cuándo volverás a ver la luz del día. A veces prohíben la salida a cubierta durante días y la travesía que en un principio iba a durar dos días se convierte en un viaje de una semana. Algunos días hay que encajarse en la pequeña cama para no salir rodando por el camarote. Dejas de comer y la cocina se cierra. Empotrado en el cubículo esperas al marinero que abra la puerta y eche un par de manzanas y una botella de agua. Cuando la mar lo permite, puedes pasear por el interior buscando algo que hacer y seguramente no encontrándolo. Si te permiten estar en el puente puedes intentar imaginarte que tienes algún control de la situación y que no eres un simple paquete a bordo a merced del comandante, y que seguramente resultes más un incordio que una ayuda en caso de que las cosas se pongan difíciles. Al final, como leer puede marearte, lo mejor es ver una película. En el Hespérides conté más de cuatro televisiones enormes de plasma. En mi primer cruce del Drake, a bordo del Las Palmas doblamos el cabo de Hornos (en realidad no se dobla del todo para cruzar el Drake) viendo Iron Man. Luego nos vimos Rec y cuando iba a terminar, las corrientes del canal pusieron el barco a más de 30º de escora, vasos y tazas empezaron a caer de todos lados. Las sillas volaban mientras por megafonía tocaban arranchado a son de mar (ajustar y apretar todo para que no salga volando). Se empezaron a escuchar los primeros vómitos y dejamos el final de la película para otro día. Hacerse fuerte en el camarote y desear que pase rápido.
Tampoco creo que antes fuese más romántico, los foqueros o marinos que se dirigían a la Antártida en el siglo pasado pensaban seguramente algo parecido a lo que piensa la gente que lo hace actualmente en buques de apoyo a misiones científicas o militares: el dinero que van a ganar trabajando fuera de casa y lo que van a hacer con él cuando vuelvan. Consuelo de sufridores.
Visiones prácticas aparte, la llegada al continente blanco es lo más parecido a un sueño que he podido ver con mis ojos. La bruma y la luz plateada que envuelve el hielo en estas latitudes crean una atmosfera onírica difícil de olvidar. La primera señal de tierra que recibimos tras este cruce fue unas enormes bandadas de dameros. Volaban a ras del agua bajo la cubierta del barco para enseñarnos sus colores blancos y negros de las alas, manchas éstas que dan al ave su nombre. Junto a éstos, la presencia inmóvil de muchos témpanos a la deriva nos indica que estamos en un sitio cuanto menos diferente al resto del mundo. La Isla Rey Jorge hace su aparición entre la bruma a modo de puerta de entrada en este reino lejano y mundo aparte. En esos momentos les doy la razón a todos aquellos que me preguntan de manera inocente: ¿Cuándo te vas este año para la Atlántida?
Después de fondear por unas horas frente a la base argentina de Frey en la isla Rey Jorge, nos dirigimos a bahía Sur, Isla Livingston. Ahí se encuentra la base antártica española Juan Carlos I, residencia de muchos de nosotros durante unos meses al año. Desde el buque Hespérides podemos ver el avance de las obras de remodelación que desde el año pasado tienen lugar en la base modificando día a día su paisaje. Con mirada curiosa oteamos desde cubierta los cambios producidos en estos meses durante nuestra ausencia. Con la misma mirada pero más ilusión buscamos entre los aparentes muñecos de la playa las caras de nuestros amigos de años pasados. El desembarco se produce entre abrazos de personas vestidas con trajes de supervivencia en aguas frías y convierte la escena en una especie de episodio de Humor amarillo. Luego, al calor del refugio y con el estómago todavía revuelto, nos acomodamos en la que será nuestra casa en los próximos meses.
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