¡Out of season!
Mié, 09/12/2009 - 15:36
Hace unos siete años, con el dinero que ganamos cosechando patatas en una granja de Noruega, mi amigo Dani y yo compramos un par de bicicletas de segunda mano. Con un carricoche de bebé que encontramos en la basura y un poco de ingenio construimos un carrito que enganchamos a una de nuestras bicis y sobre él colocamos todas nuestras pertenencias. La idea era viajar pedaleando desde las afueras de Oslo hasta Estocolmo y luego ya se vería… Molaría llegar a Madrid pedaleando con el carrito o venderlas por el camino y continuar viaje. Fue uno de los viajes más absurdos que he hecho en mi vida, pero la ecuación absurdo más buen rollo igual a diversión funciona. Para empezar, a partir de octubre en Noruega está todo absolutamente cerrado y llueve constantemente. Recuerdo que todos los lugares donde parábamos estaban cerrados a cal y canto y la respuesta que encontrábamos en todo establecimiento era: ¡Out of season!
También recuerdo un camping donde nos dejaron dormir y secarnos en una chimenea por absoluta caridad. En medio de la noche una noruega gordísima y totalmente borracha se tiró encima de mi cama y luego de la de Dani mientras dormíamos. Jamás descubrimos de donde salió la vikinga en ese camping desierto y cerrado por fin de temporada.
Pasamos días enteros encerrados en la tienda de campaña por la lluvia y bastante hambre. Unas semanas después llegamos a Estocolmo. El resto del viaje aquí no procede, sólo decir que la misma bici está apoyada en la pared de mi casa y me lanza frecuentes miradas de soslayo, a la espera de un viaje igual de divertido y sin sentido.
Ahora acabo de volver de Noruega, siete años después. Y sigo haciendo cosas fuera de temporada. Mucho más profesionales pero igual de divertidas y a veces sin sentido. En el Parque Nacional de Josteldasbreen se encuentra el glaciar del mismo nombre, se trata de la superficie helada más extensa de Europa y un gran clásico de las travesías en esquís del país escandinavo. Son cuatro o cinco días de subidas, bajadas y llaneos en un lugar de increíble belleza, eso sí: Habitualmente se recorre en mayo. En diciembre anochece a las tres, la nieve no ha transformado, está muy fresca y hay poca, y el frío puede ser muy intenso. Para sumarle alegrías al periplo yo me planté en Oslo con gripe, fiebre, malestar y dos mochilas llenas de cacharros más una bolsa con esquís y bastones.
Decidí combatir el virus con un compuesto de paracetamol, pseudoefedrina (que en dosis más altas es la anfeta que tanto tomaron los escritores de la beat generation) y Dextrometorfano un alucinógeno extremadamente fuerte en dosis altas. No es que sea farmacéutico sino que venía así, de serie, en pastillas. Los primeros tres días llevaba un globo tal que los recuerdos del viaje hasta el glaciar son sólo una serie de imágenes sin mucho sentido y pocas palabras. Vislumbro una sala de espera de la estación de autobuses donde me desperté sobresaltado y empapado en sudor a las ocho de la mañana y miré alrededor. Casi una decena de personas esperaban sus vehículos en absoluto silencio y habían tenido la decencia de no encender la luz para no despertarnos, una señora mayor tricotaba con dos enormes agujas. Yo volví a dormirme pensando que estaba en un velatorio.
José y yo acordamos con Señor Evans (el tercer hombre) reunirnos en la estación central de Oslo y emprender viaje desde ahí. Como conocemos la afición de Señor Evans a hacer caso omiso de nuestras recomendaciones técnicas sobre el esquí, le pasamos una lista de material concretando el tipo de tablas que debería de llevar y la mochila que tendría que comprar para seguirnos por el glaciar. A la hora acordada Señor Evans apareció en el lugar de la cita con una mochila de hierro de los años cincuenta recortada en la parte superior y una pulka de oferta dentro. Señor Evans era, al mismo tiempo, el encargado de llevar una pala ligera de nieve para todos los menesteres habituales que se hacen en un viaje por el manto blanco, a saber, palear la nieve tras la intensa nevada, construir muros de protección en caso de viento y cavar buscando a una posible víctima de avalancha. Señor Evans llevaba una pala de metro y medio de longitud perteneciente al cuerpo de bomberos de Tarragona adosada a la pulka recién adquirida. Señor Evans había colocado sus fijaciones recién compradas en unas tablas en las que contamos dieciocho agujeros de anteriores ataduras. Yo, en mi globo, auguraba un desarrollo incierto del viaje.
Las fijaciones rompieron tras recorrer los primeros 90 metros de travesía y Señor Evans tuvo que acompañarnos a pie tirando de la pulka hasta el refugio donde comienza la subida al glaciar. Tras un kilometro la superficie cambió y el trineo resultó imposible de arrastrar así que tuvo que ser abandonado y continuar sin esquís y sin pulka llevando lo posible en una mochila con cuarenta años customizada para llevar un trineo dentro. Esa noche decidió abandonar el viaje y al día siguiente bajó a coger un autobús de vuelta a Oslo. Perdió el autobús por diez minutos y, para no morir congelado esperando las ocho horas que tarda en pasar el siguiente en mitad de la nada, decidió hacer autostop cargado con un trineo con más de cincuenta kilos de peso. Primero fue recogido por un cura protestante que impartía clases de guitarra en un pueblo a más de 50 kilómetros y que le dejó en un puerto de montaña donde, en mitad de la ventisca, fue recogido por un camionero con el que hizo buenas migas (no sé en qué idioma) y que le depositó en otro pueblo donde continuó recorrido en autobús. A partir de ahí inició su particular viaje que le llevó, desde Oslo a otras montañas de Noruega donde vivió en una cabina de teléfonos, bebió agua de un agujero que tuvo que hacer en un lago porque no tenía hornillo y pasó cuatro días comiendo galletas y frutos secos hasta reunirse con nosotros, de vuelta en Oslo, cinco días después.
Cuando empecé a recuperarme y a enterarme de algo de lo que pasaba a mi alrededor nos encontrábamos acampando en mitad de la noche y en mitad de un campo de grietas lógicamente abierto en esa época del año. Los días son cortos ahora en Noruega y nuestro avance no demasiado rápido, aún así nos situamos frente a la última pala antes de acceder al plató superior donde sólo restaría llanear y descender a un último refugio. La pala en cuestión era un campo de batalla formado por grietas de todos los tamaños, puentes de nieve inestables y nieve sin transformar. Encordados y con nuestros mochilones jugamos al comecocos en ese laberinto peligroso de paredes heladas sin encontrar una salida segura. Nos costó un tiempo decidirnos a encontrar otra vía de salida del glaciar, pero la decisión era obvia y emprendimos el descenso de una lengua glaciar con suave pendiente que en un día nos dejó al inicio de un valle glaciar salpicado por los primeros abedules enanos y con la nieve justa para descender esquiando. Fueron dos días más de cruzar ríos con los esquís, esquiar sobre piedras y arrastrar nuestro pesado equipo a algún lugar civilizado. A la mañana del quinto día resultó que habíamos acampado pegados a la pista de esquí de fondo que, según nuestro mapa nos conduciría a un parking, treinta kilómetros del pueblo más cercano.
Practicando el deporte nacional nos encontramos a los primeros noruegos en seis días. La mayor parte de ellos nos miraban con asombro y nos preguntaban de dónde veníamos en esta época del año, perfecta para disfrutar de los recorridos pisados y balizados de esquí nórdico que se encuentran en todo el país. Las caras de asombro eran parecidas a las de aquellos que, siete años atrás, nos atendieron cuando viajábamos con un carrito de bebé pegado a la bici en la época más lluviosa del año.
Dos coches de autostop más y un autobús de ocho horas nos permitieron reunirnos con Señor Evans en una cervecería de Oslo a contarnos las aventuras pasadas.
Podías ver las fotos en Galerías fotográficas, es una pequeña muestra...
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