Después de varias semanas en el interior del Las Palmas, desembarcar en la península Byers supuso un alivio y un respiro. Dormir en una cama con el techo a menos de un metro encima de ti y vivir en los espacios confinados de un barco es algo para lo que hay que valer. Los primeros días todo se mantiene en orden y hay cierta armonía. Después de dos semanas los camarotes son un caos, la ropa sucia aparece entre colchones y sábanas y el olor del gasóleo se mezcla en la atmósfera ya de por sí cargada de un barco. En ese momento nos desembarcaron a los marcianos y a mí en el campamento Byers (Isla Livingston). Aquí pasé el año pasado más de un par de meses conviviendo con varios científicos de diferentes nacionalidades (ver crónicas antárticas 2008/2009). El lugar, constantemente barrido por el viento, está ocupado por un par de iglús de fibra que cumplen las funciones de laboratorio y habitabilidad y una serie de tiendas de campaña en las que dormimos. Después de vivir en las tripas de un pequeño buque de la Armada, permanecer en la amplia llanura donde se levanta el campamento frente a la playa más larga de toda la Península Antártica es un placer y un soplo de sensación de libertad.
El ruido de los elefantes marinos y los pingüinos, el olor a café saliendo del iglú por las mañanas y la presencia siempre constante de un compañero más, la radio, comunicándose de manera intermitente día y noche, revivieron en mí la larga estancia del año pasado en este lugar. Un lugar raro, húmedo, ventoso y repleto de vida salvaje, donde las arenas se tragan las botas de los caminantes y el viento puede hacer volar todo aquello que no esté atado con maestría de marinero. Donde los científicos eufóricos pueden permanecer horas dentro de un lago con un traje de supervivencia, unos guantes de fregar y una espumadera buscando crustáceos del tamaño de una cabeza de alfiler o transportando cincuenta litros de agua durante kilómetros y kilómetros con más cuidado que un traficante de plutonio con un maletín cruzando una frontera.
Pero este año la estancia en el campamento fue mucho más corta, y unos diez días más tarde volvía a embarcar en el Las Palmas esta vez con dirección a la base Juan Carlos I.
Después de estar cuatro meses en la Antártida durante la campaña pasada ésta se me ha hecho mucho más corta. La última fase ha sido caracterizada por la presencia de las obras de remodelación. La sensación ha sido la de vivir dentro de una obra con los ruidos y la maquinaria habitual de estos casos. Algún genio sugirió una vez que trabajar en la base antártica española era igual que currar en una gasolinera en un sitio precioso. Desde luego en esta campaña no le ha faltado razón. Generadores sonando día y noche, olor a maquinaria y excavadoras y tractores subiendo y bajando por el camino de la playa han sido el panorama habitual en este pequeño rincón de la isla Livingston.
Mentiría si dijese que no respiré de alivio el día en que el barco vino a por mí de nuevo después de unas semanas en la base. La gasolinera iba a acabar conmigo.
A partir de ahí comenzó un viaje de más de diez días hasta casa. Un viaje con barcos, aviones, autobuses, terremotos, palizas, pistolas en la frontera, una paseo por Buenos Aires y una llegada a Madrid emocionante como pocas.
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