Crónica antártica 2008/09
Fri, 23/01/2009 - 04:57 in
En la Antártida también hay domingos como los de Madrid. Domingos con las ventanas salpicadas por la lluvia y el vaho. Domingos en los que apetece quedarse en casa viendo una película o leyendo. Aquí si abres un poco la puerta lo más probable es que el viento te la arranque de las manos y dé un portazo contra la pared de fibra del iglú. Luego la lluvia o la nieve te empapen la cara y te entren ganas de volver a meterte de nuevo.
En el campamento los científicos han acabado sus proyectos para estos días de estancia en Byers. Ahora deambulan ociosos de la tienda al laboratorio y de ahí a habitabilidad. El día no invita a dar un paseo y todo el mundo se afana en preparar sus cosas para el viaje de vuelta que ya está cerca. En la antena del campamento cuelgan las banderas de los países invitados y no se sabe muy bien si se trata de un pueblo de Castilla La Mancha en fiestas o un destacamento de la ONU. Las banderas china, belga, británica, estadounidense y española ondean nerviosas en el mástil. El ruido que hacen es algo a lo que me he acostumbrado ya estando aquí. Flamean nerviosas a punto de reventar las cuerdas y salir disparadas hacia el Drake impulsadas por el fuerte viento.
Ha sido una suerte tener una compañía tan variada. Además cada investigador ha trabajado en un campo diferente y yo he podido acompañar a todos ellos en sus diferentes pesquisas. De esa manera hemos recorrido gran parte de la Península desde las playas del Sur a la desconocida costa Norte. Hemos levantado piedras, cogido agua de los lagos, capturado pingüinos, fotografiado pájaros, muestreado musgo y muchas más cosas raras. Ayer pasamos el día caminando por la zona norte y encontramos una pingüinera que no aparece reseñada en los mapas. Aunque más gente ha pasado por esa zona, la sensación de recorrer una tierra virgen es muy fuerte. Es difícil de explicar pero aquí en Byers se tiene la sensación de que las cosas están aún si formar del todo, el paisaje está todavía por modelar. Por eso es cambiante: los lagos crecen y desaparecen en cuestión de meses, el glaciar en su retroceso abre nuevos pasos a cercanas playas antes impenetrables y el mar, en su constante ir y venir al compás de las mareas, modifica las playas en cuestión de horas.
Los científicos disfrutan como niños pequeños en sus paseos por la península. Bart, de Bélgica, camina frenéticamente mientras la cámara le golpea el pecho a cada larga zancada. No sabe adónde mirar. Mientras se agacha a recoger un poco de musgo conecta su GPS, fotografía a un charrán que pasa volando, y habla nerviosamente sobre alguna especie de cianobacterias recién descubierta. La cara de satisfacción al llegar al campamento de noche lo dice todo.
Hoy es el último día de estancia en el campamento por parte de este grupo de científicos. El viento arrecia y no está muy claro que el embarque vaya a ser posible. Desde el iglú se observa cómo los borreguillos asoman por las rompientes, guardianes de estas playas. Mientras duermen en sus tiendas veo la luz del buque Las Palmas aproximándose hacia la costa entre la bruma y la lluvia, en breve se iniciarán las labores de barqueo si el tiempo lo permite.
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