Crónica antártica 2008/09
Mon, 12/01/2009 - 03:25
No todo es curro y hielo durante la campaña, en esta Navidad hemos tenido nuestras fiestas tanto en la base como en casa de los vecinos. La base búlgara está a menos de dos kilómetros en línea recta desde la nuestra. Para acceder a ella hay que hacerlo en zodiac o dando un gran rodeo con las motos de nieve. Desde sus orígenes (finales de los ochenta) ambas bases han colaborado estrechamente para hacer más llevaderas las respectivas campañas. Por eso, y con el fin de mantener las buenas costumbres, fuimos invitados a una fiesta en su terreno.
Invadimos la base búlgara por tierra y mar en un día de suave ventisca, un total de dieciocho personas. Como ofrecimiento llevamos unos toneletes cargados de vino. La base búlgara debe ser una de las más pequeñas de toda la Antártida. Rezuma autenticidad y calidez con su madera, sus tejados a dos aguas como chalets alpinos y sobre todo con la hospitalidad de sus pobladores. Nos recibieron con grandes sonrisas, fuertes abrazos y botellas de plástico rellenas de aguardiente búlgaro (rakia). La base tiene una atmosfera muy autentica que recuerda a la época de los exploradores clásicos. Los hombres que en ella viven son recios a primera vista pero nos atienden con todo el detalle y todo el cariño de aquel que, estando fuera de casa, busca el calor y la compañía en las personas que tiene cerca. En el interior, un gran mapa de todo el continente cuelga de una pared de madera. Junto a él, se encuentra la biblioteca. Se trata de una preciosa estantería llena de volúmenes de tema antártico. En ella hay un estante con una serie de libros donados por un periodista famoso búlgaro y primera persona de ese país en pisar el continente. Estos libros son todos primeras ediciones de los grandes clásicos de la literatura polar: Los diarios de Scott , dos tomos grandes y pesados con toda suerte de grabados de la expedición, el libro de Amundsen y su llegada al Polo Sur, también está El peor viaje del mundo de A. C. Garrard y la odisea de Shackleton. En total serán unos doce o trece ejemplares, todos ellos primeras ediciones, pesadas, con olor de libro viejo y encuadernadas en cuero. No sé cuál puede ser el valor de estos libros, pero al principio me daba pena que semejante tesoro pasase los inviernos en malas condiciones echándose a perder en ese lugar retirado… Según avanzaba la noche, con la habitación llenándose de humo, las canciones búlgaras, el rakia fluyendo por la sangre y los abrazos de todos esos hombres enormes, no se me ocurría mejor lugar para que estos libros descansasen.
Si hacemos caso de los tópicos, los latinos deberíamos haber llenado de canciones y alegría a los sosos y rectos pobladores del Este. La humillación fue catastrófica, no fuimos capaces de cantar una sola canción española y los búlgaros nos deleitaron con decenas de temas de su tierra que todos coreaban entre trago y trago. Abrazados y bailando yo me imaginaba que éramos un puñado de contrabandistas personajes de EL enamorado de la osa mayor. La rakia hizo el resto…
La noche avanzaba y las fuerzas de mar y tierra (o nieve) se volvieron a separar para emprender el retorno. Más mal que bien los que viajábamos en zodiac nos afanábamos por sacar la barca con dignidad de la playa búlgara, mientras nuestros vecinos nos cantaban clavelitos abrazados desde la playa y bañados en nieve y rakia a partes iguales. Lo dotación terrestre no logró volver a la base por causas desconocidas y retornaron a casa de los vecinos donde pasaron la noche.
Yo desperté bien tarde al día siguiente en la base solitaria con extraños sueños de exploradores de principios del siglo pasado, contrabandistas de las montañas, bailes regionales y un recuerdo muy difuso del final de la noche.
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.thumbnail.jpg "Cruzando el delta de Rappadalen")
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